Central & Western NY Outdoors  
November 2006

 

~~~ IN THIS ISSUE ~~~    

Wumped Again by the Great Smoky Mountains

Where in the World is Rocky?

Photographic Journey along the Canals

Longing for a Good Snow?

Even A Love Connection….

                             

          Wumped Again by the Great Smoky Mountains  by Sue Freeman

 

In 1996, Rich & I walked north on our thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. We reached the Great Smoky Mountains on the North Carolina/Tennessee border in early spring and felt the wrath of nature.  At night we’d put on every stitch of clothing we had with us and climb into our sleeping bags to eat dinner. It was the only way we could keep from freezing. One morning we awoke to find a frozen wonderland. Ice, in a layer about 1/2 inch deep, coated every branch and twig. It was pretty, but we skated precariously along the trail. We never got to see Clingmans Dome , the highest elevation point (but certainly not the most difficult mountain to climb) on the AT. We climbed it in a total white out. Walking the ridges to the summit, our bodies were stung by hail whipped furiously up the mountainside.

  10 years later, with bad memories faded and good memories vivid in our minds, we wanted to do an anniversary walk on the AT. We were heading to West Virginia for an Appalachian Long Distance Hikers Association (ALDHA, www.aldha.org) Gathering – an annual reunion where we feel the camaraderie of kin and get inspired to try new long hikes. I did some research, trying to pick the perfect anniversary hike. We considered Grayson Highlands where ponies roam free. It’s another point we never saw – as we hiked it blanketed in cold fog and rain. Or, Burke’s Garden, a pretty valley view. But, Backpacker Magazine listed a loop in the Smokies using the AT and three side trails as one of the 50 best hikes in the US. The loop made it logistically simpler so, the Smokies won.

We drove into the Smokies inch by inch, seeing a strip mall version of Disneyland in Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. Tourists were out in throngs, gawking at the fall leaves and clogging the roads. From the Clingmans Dome parking lot, we donned our packs, hiked to the summit, and started south on the AT. It was cold, but hiking got our blood flowing and we soon slid out of the sleeves of our Packas, an innovative jacket/pack cover combination, (www.thepacka.com) and rolled them back to create just pack covers. Around us the clouds periodically lifted providing views of mountains aflame in fall colors. Big, bright red bunches of mountain ash berries hung from trees adding a bright contrast. Powerful gusts of wind bounded up the mountain, tossing us sideways on the ridge. One of these gusts grabbed Rich’s Packa, filled it like a balloon, flung it straight up over 4 tall pine trees, and deposited it on the far side of the ridge. We stopped and gaped. Rich tossed off his pack and bushwhacked toward the bright blue ball. He was able to retrieve his Packa and found it unscathed. It’s a miracle it didn’t blow down the sheer cliff. We now zipped the Packas securely around us and continued down the trail.

At the first shelter a group of college students were encamped so, we moved on. We found space at the second shelter and rolled out our sleeping bags. Rich lit an Esbit tab to boil water for hot Jell-O. We sat on the bed platform clutching the cups for warmth. Déjà vu ….. Just like the first time, we donned all our clothes and nestled in our zipped-together sleeping bags to eat dinner without freezing. Winds kept whipping through the forest in mighty gusts. As night fell, rain joined the winds. We laid in bed as thunderous gusts tore through, wondering if the roof would remain attached or if a tree would pummel it. By dawn the structure was intact, but the winds and rains hadn’t abated. The forecast was for another full day of furry. The bad AT memories flooded back. This time there was no invisible force pushing us forward. We decided to retreat.

The rain and wind lashed at us on the hike out, soaking us from all directions. We repeatedly stepped over or bushwhacked around freshly downed trees. Mountain ash berries littered the trail. The world was all grey-white. The parking lot held an eerie silence. Only a few cars remained. We drove the miles out of the park, not passing or being passed by a single car. In the valley near Cherokee our way was blocked by a locked gate. A ranger who came to unlock it told us the direction toward Gatlinburg was blocked by large downed trees and crews were working to clear the road so, they had closed the park. We were glad to be warm and dry and off the Smoky Mountains rather than wet and cold, huddled in our sil-nylon tent, wondering if a tree would land on us.  Maybe a third try (in summer rather than spring or fall) might be the charm!

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          Where in the World is Rocky? 

 

(For those new to this feature, you guess where Rocky is, email info@packpaddleski.com and we'll enter you in a drawing.  We already have Charles going on a ski adventure from his guess earlier this year as a prize. For hints, try www.packpaddleski.com)

Born in Mt. Morris NY, a famous explorer John Wesley Powell went by where I am today in 1869.  Not a lot has changed.  When you look over the rim, it is awe inspiring.  Thousands of people are above me today and no one has an idea of the beauty in this spot hidden from their view.  The complexity takes time to unravel and best absorbed in out of the way side canyons like this one.  Here no trail goes.  You can’t get here from the River.  You have to drop down a few
pour-overs.  Start out by passing an abandoned mine and a seldom explored Cave of the Domes.  Descend more, pass the baby rattler, and a seasonal spring. But don’t go as far as lonetree.  Good luck tracking the intrepid Rocky and his adventures.

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      Photographic Journey along the Canals

Fred Wehner and Tug 44 traveled the waters of the Erie Canal, Champlain Canal and Hudson River. Explore his photographic cruise log at http://www.tug44.org for pictures of towns, locks, historical structures, boats, tugboats and other items of interest on the canals.

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         Longing for a Good Snow?

  

For those of you that pine for the first snow, here is the lyrics to a wonderful song. Dana also wrote the score for piano and flute. She would be happy to send it to you. Contact Dana at danamschmidt@aol.com and ask for the score to Song of the Nordic Skier. It will be sent in finale format. You can download this free software by going to finale Notepad.

 

Song of the Nordic Skier

Give me long, skinny skis, oh, the long skinny skis,
Ones that do let me go where I please.
Up the long windy hill, work the herringbone I will,
‘til the top gives way, to the downward racing thrill!

I have skied out West, I have skied New England’s best,
But there’s none like the trail of the Rocky Mountain crest.
Thru the bitter snowy cold, I will ski on very bold,
For at the end I can see there’s a warming hut for me!

Give me long, skinny skis, oh, the long skinny skies,
Ones that do let me go where I please,
Oh, the long skinny skis, I love long skinny skis,

Though some hate freezing cold, winter beauty I do seize!

Copyright 2006 by Dana M. Schmidt

 

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       Even A Love Connection….by Sue Freeman

           

We love hearing from the users of our guidebooks. Some write to notify us of changes in a trail or to offer suggestions for improvements in our guidebooks. But, most are of the complimentary sort. Here’s an example:


Dear Rich and Sue Freeman, this is a fan letter!

We love your two "Take A Paddle" books. They are by far the very best books for quiet water kayaking. The information you give is so comprehensive and precise, it is very clear exactly what to expect at each site. The only request we have is, PLEASE write a "Take A Paddle" for the Adirondacks! There is nothing we can find that comes even close to your books. We know this would be a huge task, but it would be so wonderful for those of us who wish to discover the quiet water in the Adirondacks. Thanks for writing the two "Take A Paddles" that you have - we keep them on our bookcase headboard so we can dream all year about kayaking.

  Nancy and Ed Currier

A few weeks ago we received a hand written note in the mail from Iowa. It read:

Dear Mr. & Mrs. Freeman,

I’ve always meant to send you a thank you note, but was reminded when I recently stumbled across your book unpacking boxes. Six years ago I was fairly new to the Rochester area. I bought your "Take A Hike" book to find new places to explore. One day after a crazy night on call in the hospital and a very long nap, I set off to try one of the trails in your book. It took me to Black Creek Park, a fair distance from home, and somewhere I might never have ventured otherwise. I was carefully following your instructions and enjoying the day when I realized what I was seeing and your book didn’t match up. As I puzzled as to where I had gone wrong, a friendly biker stopped to tell me I would not find the trail in my book as it had just been cut. So, he dropped his bike in the woods and showed me around.

The rest is history. After 6 years together (and 3 years of marriage) we would like to thank you for bringing us together. It is highly unlikely our paths would ever have crossed without your book. We are no longer in Rochester but we will always think of it fondly.

Sincerely, Helena and Claude Laroche

Heady stuff. Now we’re matchmakers too!

Then comes peer recognition. In the mail this week we received notice that we’re being
awarded the Finger Lakes Visitor Connection’s 2006 Legacy Award for Tourism Branding. This award is given to organizations in Ontario County who have significant achievements, made significant contributions, or have demonstrated marketing and service excellence in the tourism industry. It states we are considered the “go-to source” for hiking and biking in the Finger Lakes area.

We feel truly honored. It’s great to share what you love with others and get recognized in so many diverse ways. Thanks everyone. Happy trails…..

 

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